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The Official Weblog For:
DrinkBoy
Adventures in Mixology
Visit http://www.DrinkBoy.com for a collection of cocktail recipes, essays about proper mixology, and other reference material.
5月18日

The Chanticleer Society

This blog has been sitting here a little on the forgotten side for a while, but not for lack of activity on my part. One of the things I've been working on, is moving my popular discussion forum off of the now-defunct MSN-Groups. Initially I looked at various other "discussion forum communities", and just couldn't find one that I felt provided the level of functionality that I wanted (not to say that MSN-Groups was particularly better). So I bit the bullet, and created a brand-new website, and installed "Community Server" from Talligent.
 
The new site is called "The Chanticleer Society", and is located at http://www.ChanticleerSociety.org.
 
The name might seem a tad odd, but it is based on an old quote which David Wondrich uncovered:
"The Sunday Mercury says that if you are at a hotel, and wish to call for a beverage compounded of brandy, sugar, absynthe, bitters and ice, called by the vulgar a cocktail, ask for une queue de chanticleer-it will be an evidence at once of your knowledge of French and of Chesterfield."
- The New Orleans Daily Picayune, February 2, 1843, p.2
[Transcribed by David Wondrich, October 2008]
So hopefully that is self-explanitory?
 
5月24日

The Liquid Muse

World Cocktail Week might be over, but that doesn't mean it is forgotten!

Our good friend Natalie Bovis-Nelsen over at theLiquidMuse.com has had plenty to say about it. She kicks things off with her "World Cocktail Week Begins Today" post on May 8th,  follows that up with "World Cocktail Week Continues in Los Angeles", and continues to report on our LA festivities with "Who's Got Spirit" which focuses on the involved celebrations by The Doheny in downtown LA.

So stop by the Liquid Muse and get a little cocktail inspiration of your own!

liquidmuse

5月17日

Angostura Orange Bitters

Some of you already know about this, but for others, this might come as a bit of a surprise. Angostura is coming out with "orange bitters'... and SOON.

But before I get to that (don't worry, I'll spill the beans by the end of this post), let's cover a little background first to get everybody up-to-speed. Here is a little bit about bitters that was published in "The Old Waldorf Astoria Bar Book", by Albert Stevens Crocket from 1935:

BITTERS - Beverages containing alcohol, together with a component for cathartic effect. Best known varieties: Angostura, made from the bark of a South American tree; Calisaya, synonymous with cinchona or quinine, also of South American origin; Orange; Boonekamp, made in Germany; Boker's, Amer Picon (which a stenographer rendered for me "American Pecan"); Hostetter's, West Indies, Pepsin, Peychaud (formerly made in New Orleans); Fernet Branca, etc. So named from the usual bitter taste.

Elsewhere in that same book he says:

"…Bitters of one kind or another was considered a necessary ingredient of most Gin cocktails. The favorite was Orange Bitters, which appears in something like one hundred different recipes."

This particular book was published right after American Prohibition ended, and is based upon the bar book that had been in use by the Waldorf Astoria before prohibition hit. During the time of Prohibition, the Waldorf Astoria hotel was torn down to make room for the Empire State Building.

After Prohibition, things changed drastically. A few bitters survived this terrible time, Angostura being primary amongst them. The others that survived (which I am aware of) were Peychaud's bitters, Abbott's bitters, various folks who produced orange bitters (or re-started production), and Fee Brothers, who survived prohibition by manufacturing products which could be used in non-alcoholic drinks.

Over time, the notion of adding bitters to a cocktail gradually fell away, with fewer and fewer customers requestiong them, or bartenders adding them, to their drinks. Today, we are at a point where the only common drinks which you might still find bitters used in are the Old Fashioned, Manhattan, and Champagne Cocktail.

Time was however, when by its very definition, anything known as a "cocktail" would include bitters. Yes, even the Martini was properly made through the use of bitters, and specifically through the use of orange bitters.

When I first started getting into cocktails, the ony bitters I could find were Angostura bitters. As I read up more and more about the history of the cocktail however, I became intent on finding the various other bitters which were being listed for various other drinks. Eventually I found some Peychaud's bitters, but it was orange bitters which I really wanted to track down. And I wasn't the only one, this is the time when the classic cocktail was gradually seeing the glimmer of a resurgance.

Eventually I came across Fee Brothers out of Rochester New York, who appeared to be the only remaining company that manufactured orange bitters. I also came across a recipe for "orange bitters #4" in "The Book of Bourbon" by Gary Regan, this recipe prompted me to try making a batch of orange bitters myself. I then found some bottles of full Abbott's bitters on eBay and scarfed them up. Gary Regan eventually was able to bring his orange bitters to market, although by this time it had gone into revision #6. I have since acquired a few different bitters that are manufactured in Peru, for the use in their famous "Pisco Sour", some friends over in Germany are manufacturing bitters (aromatic, orange, lemon, and Boker's) in small batches under the name "The Bitter Truth", and the Suntory company in Japan makes an orange bitters under their "Hermes" label.

My quest for bitters led me to attempting to re-create Abbott's bitters, and my early experiments ended up with a product that was different from all of the bitters I have tried so far, and thus was born what I refer to as "House Bitters" (others refer to them as "Hess Bitters") the recipe for which was just recently published in "Imbibe" magazine.

One of the things that really sunk home for me as I was doing my various experiments with bitters, is that Angostura bitters rocks. It's rich complexity along with its overall flavor balance, really can do wonderful things to cocktails when properly utilized. It is no surprise that of all the pre-prohibition bitters, it came out as almost the sole survivor.

The bitter landscape has radically changed in just the last ten years. Where once there was only a single noteworthy bitters available, today there around a dozen different ones which can be found if you look hard enough, add to that some of the bars across the country which have taken to making their own bitters (The Zig Zag Cafe, Vessel, and Licorous here in Seattle, No. 9 Park in Boston, Pegu club in New York... just to name a few). Overall however, bitters is still the unsung hero of the cocktail. Their might be small and dedicated pockets of "cocktail geeks" who really get into using bitters in their cocktail, but the general public, and even the average bartender, is still clueless when it comes to the value of bitters.

Imagine my surprise then on a recent trip to London, when I am asked to sample two different possible recipes for a new orange bitters that is looking at coming onto the market. The bottles were distinctly unlabled Angostura bottles, and a glance and a nod indicated that this indeed was the company behind this new product. These bitters had the complexity and balance of flavor that I had come to appreciate in Angostura, but with the subtleness that is appropriate for a bitters that is indended more for gin cocktails than it is for whiskey.

Now I knew the who and what, but the burning question remained of "when". Within a year or so was all I could find out.

Recently I had heard a variety of rumors that Angostura's new bitters would be coming out fairly soon. Some were saying in a month or so, others were saying in the fall. I decided to take the bull by the horns and today got in contact with Patrick Sepe, the CEO of Angostura Spirits & Wine here in the US. As it turns out, Angostura Orange Bitters is set to be officially announced THIS WEEKEND, at the National Restaurant Associations annual show in Chicago. The plan is then to role out the product for nationwide distribution in late June or early July, with it expected to be available through every location that regular Angostura bitters is within six months.

The role out is going to be accompanied by both a marketing campaign aimed at raising the awareness of the importance that bitters can play in both cocktails and cooking, as well as a focus on getting bartenders to re-discover the cocktail craftsmanship that was common place prior to Prohibition. Angostura USA will also get it's own website, so that not only will information on it be more appropriate to an American audience, but it will also make it easier for contact, sales, marketing, and product information to be distributed quickly and efficiently.

I am very excited about the potential of having Angostura enter the orange bitters market, It may be just the shot in the arm that we have been needing to move the classic/culinary cocktail out of the small pockets of devotees that it has today, and into a larger audience of customers. Joe Fee over at Fee Brothers, and Gary Regan, are both very good friends of mine, and while on one hand it might seem that Angostura orange bitters might be biting into their sales, I fully expect that what we will see instead is that everybody will see higher sales. Not just Joe and Gary, but I expect that Angostura's original aromatic bitters will also see higher sales, since there will be an increased awareness of bitters overall, which will increase in it's use across the board.

The next battle? Improve sales of vermouth by getting people to realize that a great Martini can be made by using a lot more vermouth than is commonly seen used today... and of course a dash of Orange Bitters!

5月16日

Tales of the Cocktail

I have been highly remiss in my duties. I've been working so hard at helping with various aspects of the upcoming "Tales of the Cocktail" (July 18 to 22nd at the Hotel Monteleone), that I haven't taken the time to tell any of you anything about it.

To begin with, Tales of the Cocktail is a wonderful event that takes place each year down in New Orleans. It is essentially a conference all about spirits, mixology, and cocktails, with a little bit of New Orleans flavor tossed in for good measure. The audience is a broad mix of people including restaurant owners, bartenders, and ordinary people who just have an interest in learning more about quality cocktails.

The event is described as:

Tales of the Cocktail: a culinary and cocktail festival for the connisseur or amature, to fully experience (taste, see and learn about) cocktail culture in New Orleans and around the world. The event's annual components are Spirited Dinners, seminars, Cocktail Hour, Cocktail Lunceons, walking tours of the French Quarter, and classic and contemporary cocktail parties -- all presented by the country's hottest chefs, authors, bartenders, an cocktail experts.

The speakers at this event are essentially a "who's who" in the culinary and mixology world. With such notables as Tony AbouGanim, Ted Allen, Kevin Brauch, Dale DeGroff, Ted "Dr. Cocktail" Haigh, Gary Regan, Julie Reiner, Audrey Saunders... and that's just the tip of the iceburg.

There are a wide array of different types of events that will be going on. Some events are free, but many cost around $35 to attend (many sessions include cocktails being served). You can purchase a "Founders Day Pass" for $485, which essentially is an "all you can eat" ticket. You'll pre-register for 8 seminars, and then be able to get into any other seminar (that isn't already sold out) once you get there.

Some of the major events are:

Cocktail Hour - Where attendees get a chance to meet many of the authors of famous cocktail books, purchase copies, get them autographed, as well as sample each author's and mixologists signature cocktail and collect their recipes.

Spirited Dinners - Many of New Orleans most famous restaurants hold a special dinner on Thursday night, with a fixed menu that has been carefully paired with individual cocktails by the attending authors and mixologists. The dinners range in price from $65 to $85 per person. (FYI: If you want to come to the dinner that I will be doing the cocktails for, sign up for NOLA!). The restaurants participating this year are:

    • 7 on Fulton
    • Anatole
    • Antoines
    • Arnauds
    • Bombay Club
    • Bourbon House
    • Café Adelaide
    • Café Giovanni
    • Commanders
    • Delachaise
    • GW Fins
    • House of Blues
    • Rib Room
    • La Cote
    • Louis XVI
    • Mr. B’s
    • NOLA ( <-- That's mine!)
    • Palace Café
    • Pelican Club
    • Tujaques

Raising the Bar - A special series of seminars specifically targeted at the professional mixologist to help them advance their overall knowledge and understanding of cocktails and cocktail service.

Ask The Experts - A casual lunchtime gathering of many of the guest authors and mixologists to allow attendees to ask any questions they might have on a variety of related topics.

The Bar Chef Challenge - In the vein of "Iron Chef", this event will test the abilites of several mixologists as they work against the clock to come up with a cocktail which best utilizes the "secret ingredient".

Tales of the Cocktail Spirit Awards Ceremony - The "Oscars" of the cocktail world, this event will present a wide range of awards for notable accomplishments and abilities related to food and drink.

Movie Night - A chance to get a brief seminar about the important role that cocktails often play in movies, before the showing of the classic "Thin Man"... cocktails will of course be served.

Tasting Room - With the various products on the market it can often be difficult to have a good understanding of what each one is, and what it should be used for. The Tasting Room will be a regularly scheduled series where the producers of various products will have the opportunity to describe their product to attendees and in many cases allow them to sample as well.

The Seminars - At the heart of Tales of the Cocktail, are the large number of seminars and panel discussions which will be presented. Here is hopefully a full listing of the seminars being presented, I've marked in bold the ones that I will be hosting so you can be sure not to miss them!

    • Revolution to Evolution: The story of the American Cocktail
    • Drink in History: THe Napoleon House - New Orleans Greatest Saloon
    • Lost Ingredients: Obtaining (or making) rare ingredients for even rarer cocktails
    • On the Rocks: The importance of Ice
    • Spirited Women Past and Present
    • The Cocktail's Family Tree
    • The Martini
    • Rum's Punch - A spirited view of rum's rise, fall, and return
    • Drinks and Dishes Born in New Orleans
    • Rum Balls and Other Spiked Food Items
    • Sake To Me!
    • Enter the Distologist
    • Johnny Appleseed, Hard Cider, and Applejack - The Spirit of Americana
    • The History, Oddities, and Eccentricities of Galatoire's
    • From Glen to Glen, exploring the making, the magic and the myths of Scotch whisky
    • South American Spirits
    • How to Conduct a Home Tasting
    • From Farm to Glass
    • Prohibition's Shadow
    • Aromatics and their uses in Cocktails
    • American Rye Whiskey
    • Cocktail Culture Around the World
    • Cocktails and the Blogosphere
    • Vermouth
    • History of the Cocktail
    • South of the Border... Down Mexico Way
    • Wine Based Cocktails
    • Tiki Drinks - From A to Zombie
    • Cocktail and Film
    • Party like a Pro
    • Gin
    • Spirits Glass Tasting with Georg Riedel
    • Absinthe
    • The Mint Julep: Its History and Celebration

Oh, and I'll also be doing some filming for future episodes of "The Cocktail Spirit" for Small Screen Network down there as well.

I always have a great time down there, and I'm sure you will to!

4月16日

New Episodes: The Cocktail Spirit

As previously mentioned, I'm involved with a new project for producing videos that will hopefully help expose folks to cocktails and mixology. We did the filming for this a couple months back and are now starting to post the episodes up in a "one-per-week" schedule. The first two episodes are now available, so be sure to check back later to see how this project progresses!

Episode 1: Cocktail History and the Champagne Cocktail

Episode 2: Stocking your bar and the Last Word

 

Announcing:
The Cocktail Spirit with Robert Hess
Episode 1:
Cocktail History and the Champagne Cocktail
Episode 2:
Stocking your bar and the Last Word
 

DrinkBoy: Adventures in Mixology

A look at the culinary potentials hidden within the classic mixed drink

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